17th century
In the 1630s, large quantities of pearls were used as clothing accessories. To be truly fashionable, pearls needed to be worn in abundance. In the 17th century, Jaquin of Paris patented a method of making fake pearls. He coated blown glass hollow balls with varnish mixed with iridescent ground fish scales. The hollow balls were then filled with wax to strengthen them. This method made Paris the main producer of fake pearls for over 200 years. The best and most long lasting paste Jewellery was produced after 1734 by Georges Strass. Most fake jewellery was Paris led. Just about any kind of fake gem could be made, including fake opals. Many pieces of fake jewellery have survived in their original setting. After 1760, the production of fake jewellery spread to London and to Birmingham. Steel which was produced easily during the industrial revolution was used for settings for marcasite and jasper ware cameos. Glass and Wedgwood porcelain paste cameos were made in English factories and were very popular too.

1840 – 1890
Queen Victoria loved Jewellery, and soon her fellow countrymen were as enamored of it as she was. Following Albert’s death in 1861, she continued to wear Jewellery. Known as mourning Jewellery, Queen Victoria wore it in tribute to her deceased husband. The pieces were black and made of various types of materials: gutta percha, vulcanite, bog oak, ebonite and black glass. After a lengthy period of mourning, the dark cloud was lifted and there was a period of great sentimentality.

1890 – 1920
Most fine jewellery in the 1900s was white and made from either diamonds or pearls. Queen Alexandra initially wore dog collar chokers, called a 'collier de chien' to cover a small scar on her neck. For state occasions and formal events, she plastered herself in arrangements of pearl necklaces. The rarity value of real pearls then was such that an American skyscraper exchanged hands for the price of a pearl necklace. This is not so ridiculous as it seems, as fine south sea pearls still command a high price. While platinum was desired, it was proclaimed a "strategic metal" during WWI and its use in Jewellery was diminished. A formula for 18kt white gold was introduced by David Belais as "18k Belais." Both pot metal and sterling silver were plated with rhodium to create the look of platinum. Synthetic sapphires patented 1911. Theda Bara plays Cleopatra in a silent film version, and many ladies decided the Egyptian slave look was for them. Bohemia, Moravia and Slovakia became the Republic of Czechoslovakia. The Czechs became known for marvelous faux gemstone glass pieces. Brass stamped settings held the stones in with prongs and were well marked. Women’s styles of clothing embraced fewer undergarments showing more skin. Short sleeved and sleeveless style begged for piles of bracelets, and necklaces that looked best on bare skin. Lavaliere style necklaces continued, but the long (ropes) style complemented the vertical lines of the fashions. Colors of jewels tended to be soft, muted and more natural. Liberal use of non-foiled glass stones looked like "the real thing." While necklace lengths ran the gamut, most tended to be right around the hollow of the neck. Choker length, slightly longer strands of pearls, and a riot of beads and crystals led the parade.

1940’s WAR TIME
Coming out of the Depression and into the economy of a world at war, women found themselves called to work outside the home in large numbers...more than ever before. Rosie the Riveter couldn’t dress like Blanche DuBois. Gone were the bias cut luxe fabrics of the 30's. Material was rationed, hence a slimmer, more practical style ensued. Pants and suits were necessary for the lives of working women. Jewellery took a similar turn. Gone were the heavy rhinestone-paved pieces of the Deco years. The stones came from Europe in the first place, therefore being at war stopped the importation of the stones altogether. Manufacturers found they had to use inventory on hand. Design of the pieces produced were softer, almost flowery and romantic, with just a few stones. Sterling could not be plated with rhodium because it was being used for production in ammunition, so gold was used as the plating agent. One can almost pinpoint the period from this style of gold plated sterling pieces created. "Sweetheart Jewellery", military motifs with heart-shaped styling, became popular with servicemen for their loved ones. Hearts, lockets, wings, etc. appeared rapidly in a variety of materials by most of the Jewellery manufacturers.

1950’s
After WWII, the American economy emerged flush with victory. All those war working women felt obligated to treat themselves well. Fashion leaders responded eagerly. Christian Dior announced his "new look" which we interpret as "big look"-pouffy, bold and large accessories. Rhinestones exploded in dimension and color. Every element was affected. Bracelets, necklaces, brooches-you name it-rolled off assembly lines in bigger and bigger proportions. Plastics and metals also were popular, as well as wonderful copper/enamel pieces by Matisse/Renoir, Hollycraft jools, clearly marked with date and name. In a nod to atomic power many styles included some sort of an exploded look. In a parallel universe, wonderful sterling and all metal pieces were created in a style known as "biomorphic." Not a single rhinestone here, just intriguing "amoebae" shapes done by hand, often humorous and always individual.

1980’s
In the 1980s, there was a huge revival of costume jewellery after the glitzy scenes from the television soap operas Dynasty and Dallas were watched by 250 million viewers in the consumer boon of the 1980s. Diamante by day became the norm in reality and earrings reached such huge proportions that the 1990s saw a reaction which quickly dated lavish dress jewellery as the fashion for tiny real diamond studs or a fine stud pearls became the only earring to wear. As soon as the fashion was declared dead by everyone, including grandmothers, it was revived again in 2000AD by the fashion cognoscenti. Now fabulous fakes, especially brooches have gained ground once more.

Jewellery for the 21st century
Costume jewellery can enliven a fashion wardrobe and bring a dash of panache especially for one off special occasions. Costume jewellery can be superb. The superb is usually plated at least seven times with 18 or 22 ct gold. Highest grade Cubic Zirconium man made imitation diamonds often set in precious metals is of such a good standard that almost everyone can afford to have attractive jewellery.

The history of costume Jewellery does not end here. Every era has added its own touch. What I would like to leave with you is how inter-connected it all was, is and will continue to be. Viva la glitz!